CHICAGO, My Kind Of Town {Part One}

I traveled to Chicago for a long weekend last summer and met up with my friend B.  We rented an adorable Airbnb which I will link HERE, because it was so well kept and comfortable.  Our husbands are both students in the EMBA program at Northwestern in Evanston, so the house we chose was a great location for us.  (It was only blocks from the beach on Lake Michigan and I did pack a bikini and cover up, but we never had enough time in our schedule to saunter up to the sand).  We did however have enough time for some mouth-watering and satiating food and drink options.  

Friday was my day to choose our excursion and if you know me then you know my theme was food.  I am the self-proclaimed #wannabefoodie in my world after all.   I started research on walking food tours a couple months before we arrived and chose one in the historic Chicago neighborhoods of The Gold Coast and Old Town.  {SIDENOTE:  If you have not incorporated walking food tours into your travels then you are completely missing out on a unique and inspirational way to see a city.  Forget all the tourist trap restaurants and eat where the locals dine/shop/drink.  This is my absolute favorite thing to do in a new city.  Our tour is linked HERE so you can add it to your bucket list; our guide was named Jackie and she was very knowledgeable and hilarious. Her second job is actually at Second City (a legendary improv and comedy theater) so she knows how to draw a laugh}.  Funnier than her, she actually reminded me a lot of my therapist; which is ironic because my therapist hasn’t shown me any humor at all in our sessions.  They had the exact same voice and cadence.  Back to the tour... The tour I chose encompassed seven different stops and a wide variety of cultures, because I love diversity in all forms, including culinary.  We met at a tourist trap...yep.

  • Lou Malnati's Pizzeria has a location in The Gold Coast and I tried my best to not roll my eyes.  I was quickly eating crow (and delicious pizza) when Jackie began explaining who exactly Lou was and then she served us each a slice of traditional Chicago-style sausage pizza...with a fork.  It was delicious.  This pizza at Lou's was, dare I say, one one of the best slices I have ever had...it's the butter crust.  I mean y'all.  It is essentially a thin pie crust with mozzarella and fresh tomatoes layered on top.  So good.  Our next stop was the perfect respite for washing down all that ooey-gooey, buttery pizza...a tea shop!

  • Can you say TeaGschwendner?   (Who knew Germans could love tea so much?). This was the most educational stop for our group and it also elicited the most questions.  They served us a full-size iced white tropical tea with hints of passion fruit and pineapple.  It was delicious and this southern girl did NOT sweeten it one bit.  {shocking} Did you know that all tea is made from a single plant?  There is not a different variety of tea plant for each type of tea?  Different types of tea are created based on how and the the length of time the leaves are oxidized.  Is your mind blown?

The entire tour took three hours and our walk led us down beautiful tree-line streets with gorgeous historic homes.  Surprisingly, this included the original Playboy Mansion owned by none other than Hugh himself.  Even more surprising?  Hugh sold it to the University of Chicago and they turned it into a female dormitory.  I'm not kidding.   I'm glad our walk was further than down the street than a block or two because I needed to work up more of an appetite before we sat down at our third stop;

  • Old Jerusalem in Old Town.  This small family-owned restaurant serves up Mediterranean cuisine; you feel like you are eating at your grandmother's house and your sweet grandmother is busy in the kitchen...and also of middle-eastern descent.  We ate a falafel sandwich and it was so good...but I had eaten too much pizza at Lou's!  I should have had half a slice of pizza so that I could eat my entire falafel sandwich.

Old Town was cool; I loved the history.  This neighborhood actually existed before and during the Great Chicago Fire of 1871.  Seven buildings in a four mile radius survived the blaze...seven buildings.  Our final four visits were all on the same street and it included my top two stops.  

  • The Spice House - a store unlike any I've ever entered.  The air was so heavy with spice and you didn't know whether to take a deep breath or sneeze.  I loved it!  We tasted three types of cinnamon in their back courtyard and I found a spot to snap a few stylish pics.

  • Old Town Oil - MY FAVORITE VISIT on the tour!  The gentleman here was so friendly and helpful.  He paired different vinegars and oils just as you would cheese with wine in France.  It was beyond delightful and my tastebuds were celebrating.

  • The Fudge Pot - This small family-owned confectionary has been making chocolate in Old Town since 1962.  We tasted fresh toffee, still warm and gooey; I'm not much of a sweets girl, but I could have eaten the entire slab off the kitchen table.

  • La Fournette - A local french bakery, again family owned, and specializing in small batch breads baked daily in-house as...bread should be.   It's crusty on the outside, speaks with a deep crunch as you tear off a piece and full of delightful pockets of buttery air on the inside.  We were served a traditional french sandwich and homemade macarons.  

And that ladies and gentlemen (but mostly ladies, b/c that's my demographic) concluded our food tour.  We were free to go about Chi-Town as we pleased.   Do you believe me when I confess to you that we walked to a juice shop, coffee shop and ate dinner at another restaurant after all that food???  I know, it was pure gluttony.  But it was so completely worth every bite and sip.  I'm going to jump straight to dinner, because this was my absolute favorite meal of the entire trip.  Before I left Texas I reached out to a good friend who also happens to be a chef at one of the hottest restaurants in the country right now and he told me to plan a meal at Giant.  Oh my gravy...I'm so so so glad he did.  {Thank you for the recommendation Nick & Chris!}.

GIANT

This spot has got to be on your list for every single trip to Chicago and you ought to sit at the counter in the back at least once so you can chat with the cooks on the line; watch the show as they prepare all of the plates for the rest of the house and enjoy a glass of wine, beer or craft cocktail.  I opened with a glass of rose´ myself while I examined the menu and then I ordered pasta (because when you are at a restaurant that makes pasta fresh, in-house you order pasta every time)...and sea urchin...and asparagus.  To be specific my first dish is at the top of the menu and such a fun surprise, the Fried Super Uni Shooter (that's deep fried sea urchin with cucumber and soy my friends, and it's delicious).  The pasta I chose was Tomato Sortallini (made with guanicale which is an italian cured meat made from the jowls/cheeks of a pig...did I mention my favorite protein is pork?).  Finally, I felt it necessary to order something green so I could feel good about myself and I opted for asparagus, (which was delicious, but I didn’t find it on the menu recently).  I recommend all of it; every last bite.  My friend, B, was in the mood for dessert and when a woman wants dessert she has the right to order it for dinner.  Amiright?  Cajeta Ice Cream (cajeta is similar to dulce de leche, but it is made with goat's milk and the flavor is sublime).  It was the absolute best ice cream dessert I have ever tasted and I've actually daydreamed of it many times since last summer.  

Okay.  Now I am hungry and luckily, for me anyway, it’s time for dinner.  My plan is to follow this post up with a Part 2 and tell you all about the day my friend, B, planned…{Hint: we saw a musical about a famous American Founding Father who co-wrote the Federalist Papers}.  You want to read Part 2 and I haven’t even drafted it yet.  

Twelve Observations From A Rookie International Traveler

I've not traveled much in my ripe old age of 33 years and 11 months so getting on an airplane still gets me excited. I don't mind the lines at the airport, (but using my husband's frequent flier status was way cooler than I expected and I may or may not be spoiled ) and exploring new places scares me before it thrills me, {except Paris.  I was made to live in Paris. More on that later}.  

I'm back home and working on laundry filthy with the dust and sweat of ten days in Europe, normal household chores, folding paper airplanes, nursing a sick child and carrying a baby on my hip (because he luuuuubs his mama and I luuuub him too). I have too many post ideas to draft, so for now I have chosen to create of list of observations/discoveries from my first trip to Europe.  Let's begin:

1.  Everyone in London wears sensible (which generally equals ugly but comfortable) shoes everywhere.  I was so depressed to wear the same slouchy black boots day after day.  I'll be avoiding them like the plague, although they did keep my feet warm, dry, clean and comfortable. 

2.  Londoners walk FAST. Like fast, on a whole new level.  They bump each other and keep on truckin'.  Watching the sidewalks reminded me of my years working downtown and of the rabbit from Alice In Wonderland singing "I'm late. I'm late for very important date; no time to say hello-goodbye I'm late, I'm late, I'm late!"  The energy level is very high on the streets and is both exhiliarating and exhausting.  (My calves look better than they have in years btw.)

3.  If you're at a pub in London and you see what appears to be a footstool at your table do not put your feet up on it. It is not a footstool but rather another seat and they do not appreciate Americans who want to put their feet up and relax with a pint.  Feet down. Pint up. 

4.  The USA is a very young country.  I was completely taken by the history in both London and Paris. London in particular, the sight of 1000 year old palaces intermingled with modern glass skyscrapers is beautiful and in some odd way harmonious. 

5.  I can survive traveling on the tube all by myself without anyone jumping out to snatch me, throw me in a van and behead me on a YouTube video.  The tube was a very safe, cheap and quick way to travel around the city.   I never felt threatened.  Everyone just kept to themselves, no conversations, no eye contact, no harassment. It was great. But don't dawdle. Again, they move quick in London. 

6.  Drinking in Europe is part of their lifestyle, like having coffee and sweet tea in the south.  I never saw a drunk person...not one. But everyone was having drinks with friends and family at all hours of the day.  Here in the States we have used media to portray drinking as something you do TO get drunk and for no other reason. It is not that way over there and it was refreshing to see everyone drinking in moderation.  

7.  If you have a love affair with food then you LOVE Paris.  I LOVE Paris and it loves me.  

8.  If you have a love affair with fashion and shopping then you LOVE London.  The shopping was unlike anything I have ever seen. I do LIKE London but I don't LOVE shopping. I love food. See no. 7. 

9.  Indian food is delicious. Vietnamese food is delicious.  A scotch egg is delicious.  Hard Cider is delicious. 

10.  Paris is meant to be enjoyed leisurely, with a glass of wine, a plate of cheese, sliced cured ham and a baguette traditional.  Skip the hike to the top of the Eiffel Tower, learn some common French phrases and head to Le Marais neighborhood for the best food you have ever eaten.  If only we had boulangeries, patisseries and fromageries on the streets of my city like they have in Paris...I'd be in heaven.  Food is so much more than just food and I found an entire city of people who agree with me!  

11.  Hand sanitizer does not exist across the pond. 

12. No one is as friendly and hospitable as folks from the Southern United States.  It's my favorite part of OUR culture.